Tales of an Ordinary Surfer – Surf stories for the ordinary surfer, the every surfer, the 99% of surfers who aren't pro's or chargers.

Özet

I have never been anything but an ordinary surfer. I started surfing in the ‘70s on a Jackson 6.8 single fin, and I must admit my style hasn’t changed much since then. But I surf, and that’s enough...

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I have never been anything but an ordinary surfer. I started surfing in the ‘70s on a Jackson 6.8 single fin, and I must admit my style hasn’t changed much since then. But I surf, and that’s enough. It has sustained me through the many shifts in my life and as I get older I…